Smyth On the Move

Saturday, April 14, 2007

Home at last

After a slight delay on the the train I am now safely back in Kasama. We had to spend a night at the border on the train because of reasons unknow (maybe a derailed train down the tracks or the immigration guys were too drunk to check us through). Anyways, after 48 hours on the train I made it back to Kasama. Tomorrow I go back to the bush, but should be back out for a day before Mom comes on May 19.

Monday, April 09, 2007

Akuna Mutata

I'm sure you remember "akuna mutata" from the Lion King movie, but it means "no problem" in Swahili. On Friday I got my Vespa and headed up to the north coast of Zanzibar to a place called Kendwa Rocks. I learned after stopping at the first police check point and being harassed that it is better to just blow through them and act like you know what you are doing. I made it to Kendwa Rocks around noon and chilled on one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen. In the evening I was entertained by fire dancers.

The next day I woke up and planned to go to the east side of the island to a place called Gambiani. I got about a half kilometer down the road when my vespa broke down. I recruited some local guys to try and help me fix it. After about two hours of kicking, spitting, and cursing I called the guy who rented it to me and he told me "akuna mutata, I will bring you a new bike in one hour. Three hours later I was still sitting on the beach waiting for my new bike. Finally, around 4:00, a guy shows up on a motorcycle with a twelve year old kid on the back. The guy is stoned out of his mind, and proceeds to role and smoke a joint while I try to explain to him that I am trying to get to the other side of the island. He tells me "akuna mutata," and the twelve year old proceeds to dismantle my entire scooter.

They got the scooter running and by that time it was about 5:30. Me and the stoned guy figured out a "short cut" to the other side of the island where I wanted to go. The only problem now was that I could only use first and forth gear on the scooter and the head light kept flickering on and off. The "short cut" was a dirt road through some small villages. At one point the head light went out and I plowed through a make shift road block that someone had constructed out of rocks and almost ended up in a ditch. I somehow managed to find the place where I was staying and after a few beers and dinner I went to bed.

The next day I went out with some local fishermen on their homemade outrigger. I forgot to take Dramamin, so I spent most of the morning doubled over the side of the boat with the local guys laughing at me. When I got back on land I spent a few hours recovering on the beach and then had to set out to find fuel for my scooter because the twelve year old mechanic had managed to spill about half of mine. After a lot of searching I found a guy who was willing to sell me some.

The following day I drove back to Stonetown and took a spice tour and then caught an overnight ferry back to Dar Salam and that's where I am now. I'm going to do some shopping and then get on the train for the 32 hour trip back to Kasama. Akuna mutata.

Thursday, April 05, 2007

Zanzibar

After a 32 hour train ride and a two hour ferry ride, I have finally arrived on Zanzibar Island. The train ride was long, but enjoyable since I went first class (maybe the only time in my life). I left Kasama at 3 AM on Wednesday, crashed out in my sleeper car and woke up to the attend bringing me breakfast. After breakfast and a shower I went to the first class lounge car to enjoy the scenery rolling past while sucking down some Tanzanian beers. The next night I went to bed and when I woke up we were passing through a game park so there were animals everywhere. We finally got to Dar Salaam and I caught a ferry out to Zanzibar. It was almost dark when I got here, so I haven't scene much yet, but there are lots of mosques and old Islamic buildings. I just ate the balls out of some fresh sea food and have rented a vespa for the next three days to go check out the island. When I get back here to Stonetown on Monday I will go on a spice tour. Here is my number in Tanzania in case any of you feel the urge to contact me in the next five days. 787715628 (sorry I don't know the country code).

Tuesday, April 03, 2007

Cow, snake, Zannzibar Island

I woke up at the break of dawn this morning to ride into Kasama. Apparently someone in the village next to mine was going to slaughter a cow and was offering up pieces of it to anyone who would come and dig beans for him. I would have gone, now that I eat meat, but I was leaving. I have never seen such a mass exodus of people. It was a misty morning and people just kept coming out of the mist with their hoes going to this guys farm. Entire families, old people, women with babies on their backs and pretty much anyone who could carry a hoe were on the road.

Later on in my ride I saw a kid dragging a dead python that was about three time the size of him. I wish I had a camera (mine is broken).

Tonight I am taking a two day train ride to Dar Salaam and from there getting on a ferry to Zannzibar Island. I plan on taking a spice tour, riding a vespa around the island and spending a lot of time lounging on the beach. More when I get back.